I recently came into possession of an original Taito Space Invaders cocktail that needed some attention. All over, infact – it’s pretty far from ‘original’. The internal wiring was a bit of a mess to say the least. The 36-pin connector conformed to no known profile (I imagine it was just generically wired so a breakout board would quickly fit it to other games), the control panels were hanging by their own wiring and the CRT was in a sad state, though still somewhat functional. Having seen how far from original the wiring was already, I made the decision to just convert to JAMMA. 
Still very much a work-in-progress as you can see.
Put simply, the whole thing was caked inside and out with dirt and needed to be rewired, recapped, repainted and just generally sorted out – abused over many years at many-a-milkbar no doubt.
I made a decision to continue with my theme of quick-connects for the Control Panels after I cut away the last lifelines (read: three wires) that were holding the Player 1 side controls to the cabinet. The bolts were long gone. As I learnt from another cocktail project currently on a site, not being able to easily remove the control panels to replace/maintain them is a pain in the ass. Hence the DB-15 connectors you see hanging in the previous pic.
Freshly repainted plastic, awaiting the express-package of new controls from Japan that have been stuck in Australian customs for 3-weeks now.
The CRT chassis also needed the same kind of treatment after I realized the AC was hardwired into the isolation transformer. At anyrate:
The Sanyo EZZ-C Chassis Quick Info Sheet
CRT: 14 Inch – Sanyo 370HAB22
AC: 100v
B+ Test Point: TP91/BJ
B+ Target: 108v
B+ Pot: 5k Ohm
IC601: Sanyo LA5112N IC (9-Pin Voltage Regulator)
TR901: 2SD1090 (3-Pin Current Limiter)
No Remote or Audio Board
Closest relative: Sanyo EZ20
For all intents and purposes, this thing barely fucking exists on the internet. Sure, there’s a few confused postings on KLOV and similar places, but I basically had to scramble information from everywhere to find out what I was looking at. I was initially misled by an Atari document for a “14” Sanyo Color Monitor” that also didn’t match what I had. Moreover, the well known 20EZ cap kit is not correct for this chassis. Similarly, the name of the chassis was hidden on the dirty frame, so naturally I worked that out after I had lazily printed and filled the 20EZ list.
It was pretty dirty before I had it out.
The 14″ chassis IS similar to the 20EZ in a number of ways, particularly the circuit board layout, though at least a dozen caps are different. These are the differences I identified (though your mileage may vary):
C201 16v 220uF
C301/C303/C406 50v 10uF
C408/C467/C610 160v 1uF
C409 160v 10uF
C464 50v 22uF
C469 25v 220uF
C489 25v 330uF
C606 (Filter cap) 160v 470uF
That filter cap is important to note because it typically isn’t included in the normal cap kit lists. Well documented 20EZ problems like the “flag waving” picture post-recap also apply to this chassis (and applied to mine – currently waiting on the replacement for that also). C606 is responsible for that problem much of the time.
A quick listing of other pots you may like/need to replace:
VR451 – H Hold – 3K Ohm
VR302 – Bright – 10k Ohm
VR401 – V Hold – 200K Ohm
VR402 – V Size – 50k Ohm
VR452 – H Cent – 200K Ohm
If you are having problems with your Sanyo, as many a person has before us, a KLOV user created this flowchart to use. Again, 20EZ related, but fits here also:
Pictured below is the full schematic for the EZZ chassis. Merry Christmas, it was fun finding it. The PDF was 80mb for some reason, but I can make that available on-request if necessary (2021 update: Here it is.). This schematic matched my board sans the audio section, which mine does not have.
This JPG is a much more manageable 5mb.
You’ll notice that it’s a Nintendo schematic, and that is because this is a fairly common monitor in some of their cabinets. My chassis also takes a standard video signal – important to note because Nintendo games often used inverted video. A modification is possible to the chassis to hardwire positive (JAMMA standard) permanently. I don’t know if mine was modified in that way before I got hold of it – it may have been a factory thing.
Regarding B+ problems, various solutions have been suggested across the internet. Generally any problem with B+ adjustments is due to the shitty 5k Ohm pot at VR601. The white ‘goop’ across it is generally glue from the factory. Removal of that seems to break alot of people’s pots – so I’d just replace it regardless when doing a cap kit. If you still can’t adjust it, KLOV users also point to:
IC601: Sanyo LA5112N IC (9-Pin Voltage Regulator)
TR901: 2SD1090 (3-Pin Current Limiter)
The Sanyo IC is the hardest part to find, so just hope that your B+ pot is the only problem. My B+ pot was a problem, but sadly so are the IC and/or power transistor in my case. I can’t verify yet however as I’m still waiting for those parts to come in from two other countries. Basically my B+ won’t move from 85v~. Adjusting the Brightness pot in the center of the chassis, and tweaking the Screen dial make it swing whichever way, but it never results in a usable picture at this stage.
I’m replacing both due to advice I’ve seen through trawling the KLOV forums (go support those guys, they’re very helpful).
As it sits today. Waiting for parts.
So as I dance with customs in an eternal wait for parts, I figured someone could use the info I’ve assembled over many swear words. To be continued.
While the Atari and 20EZ docs were not entirely appropriate, many of the parts are actually similar and may be able to help you track down certain resistor values/whatnot. I’ve yet to come across the actual manual for the EZZ-C so it’s entirely a mishmash of sourcing at this stage. So, some additional documents to get you on your way:
Atari Monitor TM-151 – Sanyo 14in Color Monitor Manual
Atari Monitor TM-311 – 1st Printing – Sanyo EZV 19in (EZ20) Manual (Electrolytic capacitor list towards the end pages)
Update: To cut a long and arduous troubleshooting story short, this chassis had a bad voltage regulator but an okay IC. It is now working to a point I am more than happy with – now I can get on with finding the right PCB to throw in too.
Sega Made Bad Decisions 